The sun was shining, the sky clear, the waves beautiful and snow was visible on the mountain tops. Though I was skeptic at first, surfing in Oregon is such a beautiful experience.
I've surfed in Hawaii where the waves can sometimes "belong" to certain people and where learning to surf is something that is only truly tolerable by all if you are under the age of 16. Learning at 21 was not such a welcoming experience even for someone born and raised on Oahu. Dirty looks would always be directed towards me and crowded beaches made it an even more nerve racking experience as I dreaded running over, into, or worse yet, dropping in on some other experienced rider's wave. But the beautiful warm water and sunshine is something that I cannot help but miss when I head to the coast to attempt surfing in Oregon.
Cold water surfing is something that I have not experienced before. Making a day trip of surfing is another aspect somewhat foreign to me. The drive to the coast (as ye Oregonians like to call the beach) is about 2 hours from downtown Portland. You must bring with you: warm clothes for the hike (yes, hike) down to the coast, sneakers for the trail through the forest (yes, forest), wetsuit (I'll get into this later), change of clothes (preferably warmer clothes as the temperature will probably drop while your having fun in the "sun"), and of course, sausages.
The hike down and the bringing of food is something pretty familiar to me (although not really for surfing) but the donning of the wetsuit has been a learned and embracing experience. My first wetsuit experience was supernatural. Though putting on the skin-tight, almost unitardian garment posed much delicate difficulty, the end results were fabulous. I pranced around and struck many a pose, uber proud of myself for getting it on in one piece and feeling much like a superhero. But how can you not? Wearing a full length skin tight garment to act as a shield from the elements would make any who sport it feel extraordinary... almost invincible. No need to worry about losing your swimsuit top, or popping out from an embarrassing spill with a major wedgie, I've got my wetsuit.
Surprisingly, not only did my wetsuit look and feel amazing, it really made the frigid Oregon waters seem not so frigid. Yes, some water seeps in through the zipper and sometimes through the arm and leg holes when a wave hits, but it warms up pretty fast... and there's also the option to pee in it which supposedly warms things up a bit for you, but I wouldn't recommend it. I farted in mine once and getting rid of the gas bubble that accumulated in the buttocks area was quite uncomfortable... let's just say that the only real means of air escaping or coming in is through the neck hole. I can't imagine what happens to the pee after you've peed. Yuck.
Bonfires along the coast are legal in Oregon, making your surf experience just that much better. After a long day of driving, shimmying into a wetsuit, and surfing all day, what could be better than warming up next to a fire and roasting sausages to feed that huge appetite you've built up all day? I could probably think of something, but I can't say right now. All I know is how marvelous it is to share my waist-deep, whitewash riding experiences around a campfire with my friends before making the journey back home. To rad*.
So, if you're ever down for a new adventure, are near a body of water, and may not be in the most tropical of places, I would give surfing a try. Although it may be lacking the sunshine and the warm tropical waters, every new experience (though different and somewhat daunting at first) has its unique qualities that make it worthwhile and original. I don't really feel like I can really compare surfing in Hawaii to surfing in Oregon. They both encompass totally different adventures, each with its own distinct attributes.
*Back in the early '90s, East Coasters believed Californians used the term "to rad" to mean "totally radical". Although this is unknown for certain, it is used as an expression of elation here.